The Pig Yard

Northern Cyprus - November 2009

We have been to Cyprus before but it was five years ago and in Paphos in the south of the island and very much a tourist centre. This holiday was very different because we were staying in a Cypriot cottage in the heart of a Cypriot village although the village itself had become a British enclave with very few signs of any locals living there. We ate at a local restaurant a couple of evenings. What surprised us all was the cost of living, we had expected it to be a lot cheaper simply because northern Cyprus has a run down, neglected feel about it however the price was on a par with the UK.
Plum Tree Cottage had a sitting area on the roof so we put it to good use from the first morning. Jane looking relaxed in the sunshine and warm temperatures.   The view from the roof looked down across the village and out to sea with the town of Kyrenia as a focal point.   Steve sitting in the early morning sunshine reading a book with one of the local cats laid out under his chair as though we had lived there forever.

It was good preparation for Steve's induction into retirement.
The closest town to Karaman, where we were staying, was Kyrenia and to get to a supermarket we had to drive down a very steep, winding hill for 3 miles. The hire car was essential. It had a number of bumps and scrapes however the rental company didn't do an inspection so we've could have contributed additional dents without penalty but we didn't   This alleyway led down to Plumb Garden Cottage. We were lucky enough to be able to park at the top of the steps so there wasn't a problem with carrying our bags into the house.

Outside the front door there was a pomegranate tree with large fruits ready for the picking and Jane took full advantage.

   The doors and windows had blue shutters so it looked very Mediterranean - convenient therefore that Cyprus is in the Mediterranean.

The accommodation was a little unusual in that the only bathroom was located between the main bedroom and the living room. We managed well enough and the location was so beautiful that we would consider revisiting.
At the rear of the village there are some steep cliffs with outcrops that have a very menacing appearance.   Looking across the village towards the church located between tropical trees and cypress trees - it was an idyllic place.   The church was floodlit at night and was a really striking landmark.

Many Christian churches in the north have been closed or converted into mosques.
Girne or Kyrenia had an old and new port. The old port had some very pretty houses on the front alongside the ancient castle.   Kyrenia Castle is 16th-century built by the Venetians over a previous Crusader fortification.

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   At one corner of the harbour is a tower that we assumed to be a lighthouse.
St Hilarion Castle is another ancient structure built on the top of a mountain and part of it was dated pre-crusader period.

One can only be awe struck by the building of such a structure nestling between natural rock pillars.

   Looking back down from the top of the castle is enough to give anyone vertigo and Steve who is never comfortable at height was a little nervous at times as we scrabbled up steep steps with views on all sides.

To get to the castle we had to drive several miles along a road with military installations on both sides and clear instructions not to stop.

   A visit to Nicosia was very disappointing. The pathways were pleasant enough but the smell from the drains was enough to put us off sitting down in the open for lunch.

This old hotel and stables was well preserved. The ancient city wall was not accessible because the army had taken in over.

Nicosia is renown for being the last divided city in the world which is a very sad state of affairs.
Famagusta is a port on the east coast and was the old city, and one of  the  most enjoyable towns we visited.

It wasn't busy and therefore gave an unhurried and spacious atmosphere.

   This large cathedral in the centre of Famagusta has been converted to a mosque to accommodate the change from Greek Orthodox to Muslim inhabitants since the 1974 invasion by Turkey.

The addition of a minaret to the building doesn't seem appropriate.

   We went off in search of Bellapais Abbey but finished up on the wrong side of a mountain range due to poor maps however we came across the wonderful domed church in the middle of nowhere.
Bellapais  Abbey is on the side of a mountain and surrounded on three sides by a typical Cypriot village.

Once we had explored the ruin we enjoyed a coffee sitting in the sunshine just outside the walls.

   Salamis is an incredible archaeological site. Some of the finds go back thirteen thousand years.

We stood by a restored pillar for this picture taken by Lucie and as can be seen for the first time we were wearing rain coats as the sky had turned very dark and threatening heavy rain.

   We were amazed at the roman road and the fact that anyone could wonder along its length without any restrictions.

We could have spent a lot longer investigating the many buildings if only the impending thunder storm had held off.
This mosaic had been carefully uncovered however it was surrounded by graffiti scratched into the stonework around it.   The floors in many areas had superb mosaic patterns and we were allowed to walk across these.

We can only assume that because they have been around for two thousand years a few more people wandering over them won't make any difference.

   Closer to where we were staying in Karaman we found this bronze age burial site.

Each of the pits had been excavated and there was a large stone that had once covered the entrance.

The phrase "roll away the stone" had never been more real.