The Pig Yard

Walking the Cotswold Way (October 2010)

Sunday 3rd October – Day 1 (Bath to Hawkesbury Upton 19 miles)

After a night at a Travel Lodge we started the day with breakfast at the Woolpack, Beckington where we listened to the rain pouring down onto a glazed roof. Jane then drove to the start point in Weston, Bath. As Dave and I strode off up the path, Jane and Lucie drove off with our back packs to Coombe Farm, Hawkesbury Upton, our first overnight stay.

Rain lashed down for the first hour but we made good progress with the wind blowing from the west whilst we walked north east. We came across a few others walking from time to time but they were generally unfriendly.

We reached the pub at Tormarton (The Major's Retreat trading as the Portcullis Inn) after about 4 hours of walking so we were ready for a drink and a bite to eat. We both had sausage sandwiches and although it was advertised as doorstep bread it didn't prepare us for the thickness of the bread - each slice was the equivalent of 2 slices. The ancient pub dog liked the smell of us (nobody else did) so decided to sit by our table.

So well watered and fed we set off towards our overnight stay. Having sat for 45 minutes our legs had seized up and it was a real struggle to get going again.

There were some great views after lunch towards the Bristol Channel but our aching bodies struggled to appreciate the scene.

We arrived at Coombe Farm at 16:30, showered, changed and headed off to the Beaufort Arms for dinner. Our room was small, chilly and felt damp from lack of use and heating.

All my best intentions of updating the blog at the end of everyday disappeared as I realised there wasn't an O2 mobile signal anywhere in the village so the iPhone was effectively redundant.

Day 1 route: http://j.mp/aCSWV0

Tuesday 5th October – Day 3 (Uley to Painswick 20 miles)

Awake before 06:45 and up ready for breakfast at 07:45. We got a lift from the landlady to the start of the walk. We walked along a ridge, through beech woods passing Hetti Pegglar's Tump and Long Barrow before heading down to Stonehouse using a track Jane and I had walked when we stayed in Stonehouse in February 2007. At this point the GPS must have lost signal and placed us several miles from where we were actually walking which skewed all the readings. I realised I was getting a blister so the aches and pains moved from leg muscles to feet and then returning to the legs when the pain receptors got bored. After 3 hours of walking we stopped for a biscuit stop and a slurp of water.

Once again we came out of a beech wood, down a steep moorland edge and there in front of us was the EdgeMoor Inn. We took our muddy boots off to order a couple of sandwiches and drinks (Dave a pint of beer and Steve a pint of lemonade and orange). Our sandwiches and drinks came to over £14 so he must have seen us coming as there were no prices on the menu but we were just too tired to complain or question. We sat outside looking across another rolling valley at a small village about one mile away. When we looked at the map we realised this was Painswick our final destination for the day and probably only 40 minutes away. No matter, we needed sustenance and it gave me a chance to do a running repair on my ever growing blister.

On our way across the valley we came across a milestone indicating that we were over halfway with only 47 miles to Chipping Campden – we needed this motivation.

We arrived at the B&B too early and they were not ready for us but after a cup of tea we were given access to get a shower. We walked into the village whilst they finished off cleaning our room and changing our beds. Painswick was very quiet. The church yard had some very interesting yew tree topiary. Sitting outside a pub we drank a coffee, once again appreciating the blissful sunshine.

For dinner we went to the Royal Oak which had a simple menu and warm open fire. My medium rare rump lamb was delicious but there should have been more vegetables. I tried a pint of squealing pig cider which tasted a bland compared to some of the more popular ciders but I’m no expert.

Day 3 route: http://j.mp/9Qee4f

Wednesday 6th October – Day 4 (Painswick to Dowdeswell 19 miles)

Over breakfast Dave arranged for our back packs to be transported to our next overnight stop – Langetts. Another couple staying in the B&B were also going to Langetts so the costs were halved.

It started raining as we walked out at 08:45 but it was only a slight drizzle and didn’t dampen our pace. So we marched across the usual ups and downs, over golf courses, past views and once more through beautiful beech woods. At one point a mist formed in the trees as though the leaves were breathing and then we realised it was in fact raining. Once out of the woods we were on a main road and walked past the Air Balloon Pub but decided it was too early for lunch (big mistake). As we walked around the edge of yet another escarpment it briefly hailed but nothing too worrying. As we reached the five hour mark we realised we were running on empty and the only thing keeping us going was a symbol on the map indicating we should pass a pub soon (provided it hadn’t closed). As the Hungry Horse pub at Nine Springs hove into view we were visibly relieved. We ordered our respective lunches and my New York sandwich came with a thin layer of cheese which I ignored because I was too hungry not to eat it or to complain.

Once again, getting our muscles going after stopping for an hour was really tough but there was no alternative. The weather was great, the views across Cheltenham were excellent but everything ached so we couldn’t really appreciate anything.

We arrived at the B&B just after 16:00 and were met by a couple in their late 70s early 80s who seemed confused by our arrival. There were three dogs running loose and everything seemed a bit tacky. We didn’t have an ensuite and we shared the shower room and toilet with the couple we met at the previous B&B. The shower itself was dark and uninviting, in need of a steam clean. The beds looked dubious and mine creaked so much it sounded as though it would keep everyone awake.

We repaired to the pub only to find it had closed for refurbishment. Thankfully the B&B owner agreed to take us to the nearest pub, along with the other guests, for a meal and pick us up afterwards.

Thursday 7th October – Day 5 (Dowdeswell to Stanton 19 miles)

In the morning we had a quick breakfast, did a deal for our bags to be carried and hit the trail as soon as we could.

It seems I’d been snoring very loudly keeping Dave awake and I’d also been dreaming of bed bugs, I think we had good cause.

From the map today looked like a 23 mile hike so we decided to take a short cut missing out the circular walk around Cleeve Hill. All was going well except we somehow missed a signpost and instead walked to Brockhampton before realising our mistake and our 3 mile short cut turned into a 5 mile extension. We felt very demotivated. The topiary in the grounds of Brockhampton hall didn’t really make up for the extra miles.

So after 4 miles of road walking we made it back onto the Cotswold Way and then down into Winchcombe just after midday. We bought sandwiches and cakes with a cold drink which we consumed on a bench at the end of the town. I did another running repair on my blister before we set off again.

The afternoon saw us bathed in glorious weather and the scenery was wonderful but we rested more frequently. Eventually we strolled into Stanway where we paused to take a look at the highest gravity fed fountain in the world.

The last few miles should have been easy but at the end we struggled to find the B&B in Stanton. If we’d only read the details it did say it was on the walk and it was one of the last houses on the way out of the village. We had a warm welcome, the accommodation was clean and comfortable, a marked contrast from Langetts at Dowdeswell reservoir.

We rested and cleaned ourselves up before heading over to the Mount Inn where we received a warm welcome and a lovely open log fire. The menu and beers were reasonably priced, the food was good so with only ten more miles to go we were feeling good.

After our meal Dave went back to the B&B and I waited because my friend Gary, who lives in Banbury, was coming out to have a celebratory drink. We talked for an hour or so before he had to make his was back to Banbury and I had to get to bed and rest for the final days walk.

Day 5 route: http://j.mp/bKkD9z

Friday 8th October – Day 6 (Stanton to Chipping Campden 10 miles)

Our last day and only ten miles to walk but we were once again starting with a full pack. Our landlady kindly took a photograph before we set off at 08:30.

We had an immediate long slog up Shenberrow Hill that left me gasping for breath and Dave leading the way. Thereafter it was gently rolling countryside over into Broadway where we arrived just before 10:00. We then sat and waited for Jane and Lucie to collect our backpacks before we did the final five miles.

Again another long slog out of Broadway up to Broadway Tower which was swathed in mist and we almost missed it as we gasped to catch our breath. Once we’d passed the tower the path gently eased its way downwards and eventually Chipping Camden came into view.

We arrived at the end of our 102 mile trek in the middle of Chipping Campden by the Market Hall just after midday.

It was an emotional reunion with Jane and there was also some mixed emotions about this tough adventure, the toughest physical event I had ever undertaken had come to an end.